Today we are taking a look at replacing the spark plugs on BA and BF model Falcon’s equipped with the six cylinder engine. These engines are fitted with Platinum or Iridium tipped spark plugs meaning that replacement is due only after 150,000km and equivalent replacements only should be used.

The first step is to remove the upper part of the air filter housing and the air intake to the throttle body. There are four clips joining the top and bottom sections of the air filter housing.

The rest of the air intake is secured to the inlet manifold with two 10mm bolts and there is also a hose to the tappet cover that has to be taken off.

Once the bolts and the hose are removed it is simply a matter of pulling the air intake away from the throttle body and placing the complete unit out of the way. It is a good idea to stuff a clean rag into the throat of the throttle body to prevent any foreign objects entering.

The next step is to remove the top cover plate. There are eight 5mm allen key bolts securing it to the tappet cover. These bolts have a small fibre washer that often falls off when the bolts are removed.

As well as the allen key bolts you will have to temporarily remove the oil filler cap and carefully remove the PCV valve from the tappet cover. You might find it easier to remove the hose from the PCV valve first and then gently ‘rock’ the valve backwards and forwards while lifting it up to remove it.

Once we have that done we can remove the top engine cover.

At this stage it is a good idea to refit the oil filler cap and block the PCV valve hole with a clean rag. Better to be safe than sorry!

Now we have to remove the ignition coils to gain access to the spark plugs. You can move the coils out of the way enough with the wiring still connected, just be careful not to place too much pressure on the wires though.

It is a good idea to make a mental note of where the coils sit in relation to the tapper cover surface so when refitting them you know that they are all the way home.

To remove the coils we need to twist them while pulling upwards.

Lay each coil near it’s corresponding cylinder. If you have access to compressed air blow out any grit or foreign objects in the spark plug tubes. A small length of garden hose and a lung-full of air can be substituted if compressed air is not available. 

Grab your 5/8 Spark Plug socket, extension bar and ratchet. When loosening the spark plugs be sure to use two hands on the ratchet to keep the extension bar and socket straight in the spark plug hole.

If any of the spark plugs are tight to a point where you struggle to undo them, STOP and have a mechanic do the job for you. You don’t want to have to remove the cylinder head just because of a broken spark plug!

If the rubber in your socket that grips the spark plug is worn out as mine is you can either use a magnetic probe to get the spark plugs out…

Or a length of suitably sized hose…

Once you have all six plugs out refitting is the reverse of these steps with attention to the following points -

• Be sure to visually check the spark plug gap of the new plugs before fitting. They should be gapped right out of the box but they can get dropped etc etc. Use your socket, magnetic probe or piece of hose to lower the new plugs into position.
• A smear of engine oil or an anti-seize compound on the threads of the new plugs will ensure that they are easily removed next time.
• Be sure to check that the coils are seated correctly on the spark plugs and have all gone down to their original sitting position.
• Be sure to remove any pieces of rag you have used to cover the throttle body etc!
• Fitting the air intake to the throttle body can be a bit troublesome and may require a bit of twisting and turning of the air intake before you get it seated all the way around the throttle body housing. Persistence is the key here!

I think that covers everything. If you have any questions or concerns please leave a post on the Advice Forum. Best of luck!

After more than a couple of requests for info on adjusting the handbrake on BA/BF Falcon’s I decided it was time to steal the father-in-law’s Falcon and do a write up. Although fairly basic in nature, please read the complete article before starting this job to understand all the steps involved.

The correct way to adjust the handbrake on these model Falcons is to adjust them at the handbrake shoes inside the rear disc rotor. There is a cable adjustment underneath the car in the area of the transmission tunnel that can be used to ‘nip’ the adjustment up quickly (see diagrams below for locations) but to achieve the best result the rear wheels, brake calipers and rotors need to be removed.

Ok, so starting off with the wheel/s removed and looking from the inside of the wheel arch we can see the two 15mm bolts that need to be removed so that we can get the brake caliper out of the way.

Once the bolts are removed it is simply a matter of sliding the complete caliper backwards and off the disc. DO NOT leave the brake caliper hanging by the flexible brake hose though, sit it up on the upper control arm or tie it up so there is no stress on the rubber hose.

The next step is to remove the brake disc. For this step the handbrake must be in the OFF position and it may take a bit of ‘gentle persuasion’ to separate the disc from the hub.

The best way to do this is to strike the disc with a hammer on the hub part of the disc, turn it 180 degrees and strike it again and keep doing this until the disc is able to be ‘rocked’ back and forwards on the hub. DO NOT STRIKE THE DISC IN ANY OTHER AREA OTHER THAN THE AREA SHOWN – YOU DON’T WANT AN OUT-OF-ROUND DISC!

Once the disc (or rotor, depending on which school you went to!) has been removed we can see the handbrake shoe and the adjusting mechanism.

The adjustment is carried out by turning the ‘knurled’ nut clockwise which pushes the shoes closer to the inside of the disc.  Now here is the interesting part, the diameter of the handbrake shoe needs to be set to specification for correct operation/adjustment of the handbrake. Ford lists this diameter as between 189.6mm and 189.8mm measured at the middle of the shoe contact area (see diagram below).

This measuring is relatively easy if you have access to a pair of vernier calipers, however with a bit of mucking around I’m sure it could be measured with a conventional measuring tape or ruler.

Once you have the shoe diameter to specs it is time to refit the disc, brake caliper and wheel, ensuring that both the brake caliper bolts and wheel nuts are done up nice and tight.

If you find that the handbrake is still not holding the car with the lever coming up a long way we then need to adjust the cable.

With the rear of the car jacked up and both wheels off the ground proceed as follows -

• Adjust the handbrake shoes to specification (done that!)
• Fully release the Handbrake lever and apply to the first ‘click’ only
•  Tighten cable adjuster nut (see diagrams at top of article) until a very small amount of drag is felt when rotating the rear wheels by hand
• Apply the Handbrake lever a further three ‘clicks’
• Check that the rear wheels cannot be rotated by hand
• Fully release the Handbrake lever and check that the rear wheels turn freely by hand
• Go and have a beer!

A Few Observations – We have come across the occasional BA and BF Falcon that proves very hard to get the handbrake to operate in what would normally be considered a satisfactory way and if you find that after following these steps the lever still comes up a long way before the handbrake is effective you might be tempted to keep winding on the adjustment. Be careful! Winding on the cable or shoe adjustment increases the chance of the shoes continually contacting the inside of the disc causing drag AND prematurely wearing the handbrake shoes.

Good luck and if you have any questions feel free to leave a post on the Advice Forum.