Here at Autofix we have recieved a number of questions relating to the crankshaft pulley bolt working it’s way loose on a number of V6 Pajero’s and I though it worthwhile to add my two cents into the subject. This seems to be a very common problem and due to the damage that can be done to crankshaft, owners contemplating changing the timing belt themselves need to be aware of this issue.
Nine out of ten times when this has happened a timing belt change has not long been done which leads you to think that the crankshaft pulley bolt may not have been tightened adequately which is more than likely the case, however I know of a few occasions where the bolt has worked it’s way out during normal use.
I think this highlights the need for regular checks of the crankshaft pulley bolt torque, perhaps every six months or so would be a good idea. Although checking the bolt torque without the right tools is not a simple job, a replacement crankshaft is definately more involved and more expensive!
So how do we go about tightening or checking the crankshaft pulley bolt torque? The Mitsubishi workshop manual lists a special tool used for preventing the engine from turning and if you have a look at the picture I think anyone with reasonable fabricating skills could knock one of these up and I believe this to be the easiest method for doing this job. There are a couple of other ways to do this and I will cover these when I have access to a Pajero so I can include pics with the articles.
NOTE: The torque value required for the bolt is listed in the workshop manual as 177-186Nm. Before removing the pulley bolt please be sure that you either have or have access to a Torque Wrench that can be adjusted that high. If you have completely removed the bolt be sure to use Locktight on the thread before refitting.
I’ve got my hands on a ‘99 model Challenger that has the 3.0 24 Valve engine and have made up a copy of the Mitsubishi tool that I think could be adapted to all models of the Mitsubishi V6. Check it out here.
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11 Users Responded in " Mitsubishi Pajero V6 – crankshaft pulley issues "
Hi, Am thinking of refitting the crank shaft pully as its gone loose.
Will need the right tools so how can I get my hands on any of these tools?
Are they expensive?
Which way is it to be rotated off then back on?
R
how much torque is required for replacing the cramkshaft pulley
Hi Joe,
The bolt that secures the crankshaft pulley should be tightened to a torque of 180 Newton Metres ( 133 Foot/Pounds ) to avoid the bolt coming loose during normal operation.
hi,my pully bolt came loose while on a long trip thankfully it was on my way home,unfortunatly on ckecking it later i found that the key was distroyed,do you know where i can get a replacement,brian
Brian,
I believe you will only find a replacement crankshaft key at a Mitsubishi dealership. Not an expensive item from memory.
Regards,
Craig
cheers craig for info,cheers brian.
You’re welcome sir.
hi cgaig if your about,the key on the crank has snaped of and a piece is left inside the timeming sprocket,any ideas as to how i can get it out,i presume this key serves both the sprocket and the pully.
That’s not a good situation Brian. You are right in thinking that the key serves both the timing belt sprocket and crankshaft pulley and given that I think the timing belt and sprocket will have to come off to retrieve what is left of the key.
Is there any part of the key left protruding from the sprocket?
Regards,
Craig
hi craig,have actually done the motor now,,it might be worth you mentioning to outhers that if the pully comes loos that this is the sort of prob that can result and if they are not machanicly minded will cost a pretty penny,my machanic mate helped me at a much reduced rate,with the pully and his help it still cost over two hundred,i wouldnt want to pay full rate,the tool you mentioned is a great idea it works perfect,thank you for your imput,vrey gratefull,brian.
It is good to hear that you got it all sorted Brian. You’re dead right about the cost involved in such a repair if you’re not mechanically minded and had to pay full rates, a lot of money to repair what I consider to be a design fault in the first place.
The area of the balancer that is in contact with the crankshaft is way too small for the mass of the balancer and where the belts run is too far forward from the snout of the crankshaft which puts an unnecessary amount of pressure on the retaining bolt leading to bolt failures or the internal thread of the crankshaft wearing resulting in the bolt loosening. In my opinion at least!
Anyway, good to hear you got it sorted and I’m glad the tool worked well for you.
Regards,
Craig
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