Hi folks, today we are looking at what’s involved in replacing the timing belt on a Toyota 1HZ diesel engine, commonly found in 80, 100 and 200 series Land Cruiser’s. As far as timing belts go, if you had to do one this is the one you would want to do! Nice easy job, the biggest issue you’ll probably have is rotating the engine to line the timing marks up as it’s a bit cramped for room.
As always please read through the instructions first to make sure you understand all the steps and have the tools you need to complete the job. If you are planning on replacing the camshaft seal (i.e. there is oil leaking from behind the camshaft pulley) please see the relevant sections of this article for instruction and keep in mind that the camshaft pulley bolt will have to be loosened straight after removing the cover (before removing the tensioner or belt).
Ok, first off the power steering reservoir needs to be undone from the manifold so we can move it out of the way when needed. Three 12mm bolts for this. Once the bolts are undone the reservoir can just sit where it is for the time being.
Next up the timing belt cover needs to come off. There are six 10mm bolts to remove. A deep socket comes in handy here and for one of the bolts and to remove the cover the power steer reservoir and hoses need to be moved out of the way a bit.
Now to line the timing marks up we need to rotate the engine. The best way to do this is to hit the key a few times until the marks are close and then use a socket and ratchet on the harmonic balancer bolt to turn it the rest of the way. It’s tight but there is enough room to get a 1/2 drive, 1 and 1/4 inch socket (32mm) and ratchet in there to turn the crank.
And the timing marks on the camshaft and injector pump should be lined up like this –
With everything lined up the tensioner can now be removed. At this point I always remove the keys from the ignition and/or disconnect the battery. The last thing you want while the timing belt is off is someone to come along and want to move the car or something and try to start it. I have seen it happen and it’s not pretty what moving pistons do to stationary valves!
Remove the two 10mm bolts securing the tensioner and you’ll then be able to remove the belt. If you aren’t replacing the tensioner (I highly recommend that you do though) you will need a way to compress the pushrod back into the tensioner body to fit the new belt. A bench vice or even a large pair of multi-grips or even a G clamp will help here and some sort of pin or thin rod to put through the holes in the tensioner body and pushrod. Before compressing the pushrod it may require turning in the body slightly so the holes line up. Slow, even pressure applied to the pushrod will get it moving in the required direction.
Next up we can fit the new belt, ensuring that all the slack in the belt is on the tensioner side and the arrows on the belt are facing the right way. The tensioner can also go back on now with the two 10mm bolts, ensuring that it is all the way in and positioned correctly.
And then we can ‘pull the pin’ on the tensioner and the pushrod should push the tensioner pulley hard up against the belt and take out any slack. At this point it is imperative to rotate the engine by hand (well by socket and ratchet) until both sets of marks line up again, just to be sure everything is lined up and the belt is running correctly.
If all is good the cover can be refitted (six 10mm bolts) and the power steer reservoir can be bolted up and you’re done. Easy as!