Got a six cylinder EA to ED Falcon with a leaky waterpump? You’ve come to the right place, today we are looking at what is involved in replacing the waterpump on these Ford’s.
As usual please read through this article in it’s entirety before starting out so that you get an understanding of the steps involved and to ensure you have, or have access to, the required tools and equipment needed to complete the job. Alright, let’s get into it.
The first step is to drop the bottom hose off at the radiator end and let the coolant drain out. It’s a good idea to do this somewhere other than where you are going to be doing the rest of the job!
Next up we can remove the top radiator hose and the expansion tank hose at the thermostat housing end so that we can remove the fan and shroud.
The fan has a 22mm LEFT-HAND-THREAD nut that connects to the waterpump shaft. To remove it you either need a thin 22mm spanner or a long-ish cold chisel or solid flat-blade screw driver to knock it loose. Obviously the spanner is the preferred method of removal but I have removed many without damaging the waterpump the other way. Here is how we use a cold chisel to loosen the fan – place the cold chisel on the right hand side of the nut, one or two solid hits and it should come loose. Once it’s loose it’s just a matter of spinning it off but remember that it’s LEFT-HAND-THREAD so it will feel like you’re tightening it up!
Once you have the fan removed from the waterpump undo the two phillips head screws that hold the fan shroud to the radiator and lift the shroud and fan out together.
Next up is moving the power steering pump out of the way. This step is not absolutely necessary, it is possible to change the waterpump without moving the power steer pump but for the sake of one belt and three bolts it makes life so much easier.
Loosen the 24mm nut on the p/steer belt tensioner and use a 13mm spanner to wind the tensioner down and remove the belt.
Then remove the two 13mm bolts at the front of the pump and the 17mm nut at the rear. Once these are removed the pump can be moved over and out of the way a bit.
Now we can remove the waterpump pulley bolts (10mm) and with any luck you will be able to slide the belt and pulley off the waterpump.
Then remove the bottom radiator hose from the waterpump and loosen the alternator belt adjuster (13mm) a couple of turns and remove the 13mm bolt from the back of the top alternator mount.
Now we can remove the four 10mm bolts that hold the waterpump to the block (the alternator bracket can just sit off to the side out of way). Use a drip tray here as removing the pump will spill a fair bit of coolant. If necessary use a soft hammer and give the pump a couple of taps to dislodge it from the block and the metal pipe that goes into the back.
Next we need to remove the old O ring from the pipe and remove all of the old gasket from the block surface. I use a single-sided razor blade followed by some emery tape and it seems to do a good job. A rub with emery tape around the O ring recess in the pipe should be all that is needed there. If you have compressed air I also suggest blowing out the bolt holes, just be aware that the top right hole goes into the coolant passages and coolant will splash out if you hit that one too hard! The others are ok as they are blind holes. Giving the four bolts the wire brush treatment is a good idea also.
It’s a good idea at this stage to check that you got what you paid for and make sure the new pump is the same as old one. To avoid leaks I suggest using Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket on both sides of the loose pump gasket (don’t worry about the gasket behind the metal plate, it will be fine) and fit the replacement O ring and smear some rubber grease or Vaseline around it so that the pump goes on without damaging it.
Fit two of the bolts to the pump so that they locate the gasket in place and fit the new pump to the block. I suggest pushing it in at the bottom first so that you can make sure the pipe goes in ok and the O ring is not damaged.
Ensure that the gasket is fitted correctly (as best you can) and refit the three smaller waterpump bolts and tighten them up evenly.
Next we can fit the alternator bracket to the waterpump with the longer waterpump bolt, but don’t tighten it up yet.
Fit the 13mm bolt at the back of the alternator bracket first and then tighten up the last 10mm waterpump bolt.
Next up we can fit the waterpump pulley and belt and hand-tighten the pulley bolts. We can then tension the belt by turning the 24mm (15/16) nut anti-clockwise and then tightening the 13mm bolt when the belt is tight enough.
Now we can tighten the 10mm pulley bolts.
The bottom radiator hose can be refitted at both waterpump and radiator ends now, as can the power steering pump (two 13mm bolts at the front and one 17mm at the rear).
Next the fan and shroud can be lowered into position as one unit. The fan can then be wound onto the waterpump shaft (remember it’s left hand thread so you will be in effect loosening it!). A knock with a cold chisel and hammer on the left hand side (as you stand looking at it) of the fan nut should be enough to tighten it and there are two phillips head screws to go in to hold the shroud to the radiator.
Now the top radiator hose and expansion tank hose can be fitted.
Almost there! All that’s left is to refill the coolant, check for leaks and run (or drive) the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature and check for leaks and check the coolant level again.