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	<title>Comments on: How To Re-Paint A Car &#8211; Part One &#8211; General Info</title>
	<atom:link href="http://autofix.com.au/blog/how-to-re-paint-a-car/feed" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://autofix.com.au/blog/how-to-re-paint-a-car</link>
	<description>Auto Repair Information And Advice</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Thu, 09 Feb 2012 17:30:52 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<item>
		<title>By: Travis</title>
		<link>http://autofix.com.au/blog/how-to-re-paint-a-car/comment-page-2#comment-90660</link>
		<dc:creator>Travis</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 Feb 2012 00:27:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://autofix.com.au/blog/archives/497#comment-90660</guid>
		<description>Hi Craig, just after some advice from you... I want to rep-spray my 83 e30 bmw with acrylic lacquer. The original paint (acrylic I think), is in ok condition so I am going to sand back the shine for keying of the new paint. I am after a pretty nice, flat, showy finish. I am adding a fibreglass bodykit which I have already sanded back with 400. The front fibreglass bumper I have taken back to the gelcoat. The bonnet has minor stone chips/rust in the stonechip dents. 
Should I spray on an isolator or etch primer first at all for adhesion of the new paint?
Should I just sand the stonechips and tiny dings with rustspots back to metal, use a rust neutraliser, then use filler and then hi-fill primer over the top? 
For the bumper should I apply a flex agent after the first prime?
After everything is hi-fill primed I will wet sand, then repeat so I have 3 coats of hi-fill primer.
This will be followed by 3-4 coats of colour with wet sanding of 1200 in between coats.
No wet sand following the final colour coat.
Two to three coats of clear with wet sanding of 2000 in between.
Then buff and polish afterwards.
Would this be a suitable process? I havnt sprayed a car before. Ive read Pat Ganahl&#039;s book, but he mainly concentrates on 2pack which I dont want to use for safety and novice reasons.
Cheers, Travis</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Craig, just after some advice from you&#8230; I want to rep-spray my 83 e30 bmw with acrylic lacquer. The original paint (acrylic I think), is in ok condition so I am going to sand back the shine for keying of the new paint. I am after a pretty nice, flat, showy finish. I am adding a fibreglass bodykit which I have already sanded back with 400. The front fibreglass bumper I have taken back to the gelcoat. The bonnet has minor stone chips/rust in the stonechip dents.<br />
Should I spray on an isolator or etch primer first at all for adhesion of the new paint?<br />
Should I just sand the stonechips and tiny dings with rustspots back to metal, use a rust neutraliser, then use filler and then hi-fill primer over the top?<br />
For the bumper should I apply a flex agent after the first prime?<br />
After everything is hi-fill primed I will wet sand, then repeat so I have 3 coats of hi-fill primer.<br />
This will be followed by 3-4 coats of colour with wet sanding of 1200 in between coats.<br />
No wet sand following the final colour coat.<br />
Two to three coats of clear with wet sanding of 2000 in between.<br />
Then buff and polish afterwards.<br />
Would this be a suitable process? I havnt sprayed a car before. Ive read Pat Ganahl&#8217;s book, but he mainly concentrates on 2pack which I dont want to use for safety and novice reasons.<br />
Cheers, Travis</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: Craig Wilson</title>
		<link>http://autofix.com.au/blog/how-to-re-paint-a-car/comment-page-2#comment-90597</link>
		<dc:creator>Craig Wilson</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 27 Jan 2012 16:55:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://autofix.com.au/blog/archives/497#comment-90597</guid>
		<description>Hi Bernard,
I can&#039;t say that I have come across the problem you are having with your paint, although I have heard of things like humidity blisters and thinners entrapment that I believe can cause this type of thing. I did find this troubleshooting guide which might be of use - http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/~/media/Sherwin-Williams-Files/Files/Reference/Trouble%20Shooting%20Guide/tsg.ashx

Hope that helps!
Regards,
Craig</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Bernard,<br />
I can&#8217;t say that I have come across the problem you are having with your paint, although I have heard of things like humidity blisters and thinners entrapment that I believe can cause this type of thing. I did find this troubleshooting guide which might be of use &#8211; <a href="http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/~/media/Sherwin-Williams-Files/Files/Reference/Trouble%20Shooting%20Guide/tsg.ashx" rel="nofollow">http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/~/media/Sherwin-Williams-Files/Files/Reference/Trouble%20Shooting%20Guide/tsg.ashx</a></p>
<p>Hope that helps!<br />
Regards,<br />
Craig</p>
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		<title>By: bernard moosa</title>
		<link>http://autofix.com.au/blog/how-to-re-paint-a-car/comment-page-2#comment-90432</link>
		<dc:creator>bernard moosa</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 18 Jan 2012 12:26:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://autofix.com.au/blog/archives/497#comment-90432</guid>
		<description>hi,ive sprayed possibly 10 cars with arcylic and clear normally about 4-5 coats colour 3 coats clear i always got very little white spots close together on a panel or 2,this time i sprayed a honda with red paint and almost every panel has spots,but not seen when painted but after a light sand 1200 wet and dry it comes up after compounding gun with 1.8 nozzle paint /clear mix 1-1.5 ratio clean and dust free panels</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>hi,ive sprayed possibly 10 cars with arcylic and clear normally about 4-5 coats colour 3 coats clear i always got very little white spots close together on a panel or 2,this time i sprayed a honda with red paint and almost every panel has spots,but not seen when painted but after a light sand 1200 wet and dry it comes up after compounding gun with 1.8 nozzle paint /clear mix 1-1.5 ratio clean and dust free panels</p>
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		<title>By: Maria</title>
		<link>http://autofix.com.au/blog/how-to-re-paint-a-car/comment-page-2#comment-89313</link>
		<dc:creator>Maria</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 11 Dec 2011 06:10:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://autofix.com.au/blog/archives/497#comment-89313</guid>
		<description>Hey I want to re spary paint my whole car I got screeches all over it what&#039;s tue best thing tO do 1st I got an Idea how to do it but how to I sand down my car and what paint is best to use to make the car look pro</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey I want to re spary paint my whole car I got screeches all over it what&#8217;s tue best thing tO do 1st I got an Idea how to do it but how to I sand down my car and what paint is best to use to make the car look pro</p>
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		<title>By: luke BJ Shorty</title>
		<link>http://autofix.com.au/blog/how-to-re-paint-a-car/comment-page-2#comment-88915</link>
		<dc:creator>luke BJ Shorty</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 04 Dec 2011 02:09:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://autofix.com.au/blog/archives/497#comment-88915</guid>
		<description>Very Helpful site, Having a go at re spraying my Restored BJ40 Landcruiser myself and your site has helped me to no end, I had no idea and was sceptical about doing it my self, but im have a go and it is coming up great, real personal satisfaction and a total cost of about $ 400.00 for everything including Full undercoat and Acrylic paint, 

Thanks again

Im now looking for my next landcruiser to have a go at

Luke</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Very Helpful site, Having a go at re spraying my Restored BJ40 Landcruiser myself and your site has helped me to no end, I had no idea and was sceptical about doing it my self, but im have a go and it is coming up great, real personal satisfaction and a total cost of about $ 400.00 for everything including Full undercoat and Acrylic paint, </p>
<p>Thanks again</p>
<p>Im now looking for my next landcruiser to have a go at</p>
<p>Luke</p>
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		<title>By: Naomi</title>
		<link>http://autofix.com.au/blog/how-to-re-paint-a-car/comment-page-2#comment-85959</link>
		<dc:creator>Naomi</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 Nov 2011 21:14:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://autofix.com.au/blog/archives/497#comment-85959</guid>
		<description>This is exactly a thing I must find more information about, thank you for the publish.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This is exactly a thing I must find more information about, thank you for the publish.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: andrew</title>
		<link>http://autofix.com.au/blog/how-to-re-paint-a-car/comment-page-2#comment-85724</link>
		<dc:creator>andrew</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 30 Oct 2011 21:41:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://autofix.com.au/blog/archives/497#comment-85724</guid>
		<description>Hi 
im painting a vs commodore with acrylic, and i have a body kit that has been stuck on with silkaflex , the problem i have found is that when the silkaflex is  painted over the paint cracks, does any one know how to stop this ? i know its from the silkaflex moving , i need something maybe to put over it ,spray putty , or something like that , theres lots of gaps i had to fill with it like bog, so need it to look good . any help would be great thanks . great site.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi<br />
im painting a vs commodore with acrylic, and i have a body kit that has been stuck on with silkaflex , the problem i have found is that when the silkaflex is  painted over the paint cracks, does any one know how to stop this ? i know its from the silkaflex moving , i need something maybe to put over it ,spray putty , or something like that , theres lots of gaps i had to fill with it like bog, so need it to look good . any help would be great thanks . great site.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: 2pack - Woodwork Forums</title>
		<link>http://autofix.com.au/blog/how-to-re-paint-a-car/comment-page-2#comment-77823</link>
		<dc:creator>2pack - Woodwork Forums</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 29 Jul 2010 09:14:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://autofix.com.au/blog/archives/497#comment-77823</guid>
		<description>[...] can pressure. Dry cans well before spraying!!  There&#039;s a very good car/spray painting guide here - http://autofix.com.au/blog/how-to-re-paint-a-car  And you&#039;ll find three coats is pretty much par for the course with spray - it can be even more [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] can pressure. Dry cans well before spraying!!  There&#39;s a very good car/spray painting guide here &#8211; <a href="http://autofix.com.au/blog/how-to-re-paint-a-car" rel="nofollow">http://autofix.com.au/blog/how-to-re-paint-a-car</a>  And you&#39;ll find three coats is pretty much par for the course with spray &#8211; it can be even more [...]</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: craig</title>
		<link>http://autofix.com.au/blog/how-to-re-paint-a-car/comment-page-2#comment-77402</link>
		<dc:creator>craig</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 29 Jun 2010 07:00:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://autofix.com.au/blog/archives/497#comment-77402</guid>
		<description>Thanks for that champ!

Regards,
Craig</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for that champ!</p>
<p>Regards,<br />
Craig</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: hfghh</title>
		<link>http://autofix.com.au/blog/how-to-re-paint-a-car/comment-page-2#comment-77401</link>
		<dc:creator>hfghh</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 29 Jun 2010 05:50:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://autofix.com.au/blog/archives/497#comment-77401</guid>
		<description>i am a professional spray painter if anyone wants a hand or advice with anything just give me a call or email 
macgiggity@hotmail.com</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>i am a professional spray painter if anyone wants a hand or advice with anything just give me a call or email<br />
<a href="mailto:macgiggity@hotmail.com">macgiggity@hotmail.com</a></p>
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