Falcon Transmission woes

I thought it about time we updated this post with some actual useful information! A big thanks goes out to a number of people that have been good enough to share their knowledge with everyone. These include Sandy, Tinntter (Paul), Ralph, nrivers2, Tony, John S, transmission builder, Jay, Mark and Kim – thanks!

In this post we are looking at some of the more common problems that seem to dog the 4-speed automatic transmissions fitted to EA-onwards Falcons.

Where’s The Dipstick??

The first issue we will look at is the dipstick (and no Mark, I don’t mean the person behind the wheel 🙂 ), or lack thereof on some Falcons. If you own a Falcon built after February 1996 it will be fitted with a ‘sealed’ transmission and no, your eyes aren’t playing tricks on you, there is no dipstick fitted to these transmissions (which I believe is part of the reason these transmission don’t often get the servicing they need – out of sight, out of mind).

Yes, you can check the condition of the fluid and it’s level but it does require the car to be jacked up both ends and a 5/8 (18mm) filler plug being removed. You can read more about this at our Falcon 4 Speed Auto Fluid Level Check post.

My Car Won’t Change Up Or Down Gears!

If you find that your Falcon won’t change up or down gears, even when coming to a complete stop or doing highway speeds when you know it should be in fourth, there is a good chance that it is in ‘Limp Home’ mode. What’s happening is the ecu has picked up that there is a problem and basically ‘locked’ the transmission into third gear to prevent any damage (or more damage) being done to the trans.

This can be caused by a number of things, excessive fluid temperature, a faulty throttle position switch or selector switch, the list goes on. Fault codes can be retrieved from the ecu to help find the problem and/or an inspection by a transmission specialist will get the issue sorted.

How To Prolong The Life Of Your 4-Speed Auto 

Regular Servicing is an absolute must if you want any auto transmission to last. I lost count of the number of sealed transmission that we saw that had never had a fluid and filter change and despite what you may have been led to believe, a sealed transmission does need to be serviced. Every 20,000km is a good yardstick to go by.

With a typical automatic service the pan is dropped, the filter is changed, the pan put back on and the trans. is refilled. While this is better than nothing at all, it does leave an amount of old fluid behind in the torque converter and places like that which is why a complete flush of the auto every 50,000km is also a good idea. I know Ford will do this for you but I’m also going to go with the suggestions made by a couple of our readers and do a post on how you can do this yourself. I will update this post when I get that done and documented.

Change To An Aftermarket Transmission Cooler – quite a number of the transmission failures we have seen over the years were due to the original in-radiator transmission cooler breaking down and sending bits of copper back into the transmission with the fluid.

The best thing you can do here is to bypass the factory cooler and fit an aftermarket cooler, or two. An external cooler is also a must if you are going to be doing any towing or otherwise giving the transmission a thorough workout and the bigger the better with transmission cooler’s. Paul (tinntter) was kind enough to send through some pics and diagrams of how he fitted two original Ford external trans. coolers to his Falcon. You can read this here – Falcon Transmission Cooler Installation.

A couple of other things worth mentioning here, the Ford 4-Speed Auto’s use TQ95 fluid, not Dexron 3 which is used in a large number of transmissions. This is very important as Dexron 3 will not do your 4-speed auto any good.

Also if you find that the filler plug on your dipstick-less Falcon trans. is rounded off and you need to refill/top-up the fluid level, a couple of readers have removed the top cooler hose/pipe to the radiator and while using a funnel have managed to fill the transmission this way. It may take a while but unless you can weld a bigger nut to the filler plug or something like that it may just get you out of trouble!

I would like to mention also that these problems aren’t necessarily limited to the Falcon auto’s – case in hand, my inlaw’s (or outlaw’s as I call them) bought a VS Commodore off the showroom floor for their big around-Australia trip. In the 80,000km that the car had travelled by the time they left (mostly thanks to us ‘kids’ borrowing it) the transmission had been serviced twice and a large external cooler had been fitted because they were taking a single axle, I guess ‘medium’ size caravan with them.

Cut a long story short, they made it as far as Rockhampton (roughly 600km’s) and the auto fried itself big time. The guy that rebuilt it said that this was quite common and he would only guarantee his work if a bigger pan was fitted – more fluid, more ‘cooling capacity’.

Bit of trivial informaton there for you but it does go to show that they don’t make ’em like they used to!

There are some really helpful comments below, I urge you to read them if you’re having trouble with your transmission.

227 thoughts on “Falcon Transmission woes

  1. hi i have a ba e gas wagon that only has 1st and 2nd gears 3rd and 4th wont upshift
    can i swap the box with one from and ed
    ive heard u only need to swap the valve body and convertor
    any info would be appreciated…thanks

  2. Hello I have Ef 4.0 falcon auto has been staying in third gear when gets warm I parked it at home which on hill topped tran fluid up and it leaked straight out as I filled. Seems to leak near some sort of switch side of box. Any help would be great

  3. The ba and ed 4 speed transmissions are not a straight swap as the electronics are different.

    No fourth gear looks to me to be a valve body or solenoid issue and means pan off and go thru the trans = costs!!

    To be brutally honest, anything beyond 220 – 240,000 KMS with these autos is generally the end – and a lot less if a lot of towing has been done. Yes, cabs get more but they (usually) have fluid changes done and run at ideal operating temps and yes we all know stories of some going 300,000. Rare IMO.

    The territory 4 speed is basically the same – BTR (ION Industries – now bankrupt…) 4 speed but they are actually not as good in terms of quality of internal components. They have an”interesting list” of issues… – and 4 speed commodores ain’t any better either.

  4. kim, are you a trans specialist or a kid who knows how to use google? I absolutely hate it when people say something on forums without the experience to back it.
    Falcon trannies can go for much longer than 200k’s. Problem is that the majority of drivers are slack with maintenance. A fluid change every 20000 and a flush every 60000 will see these boxes go forever. Yes, a car that tows a lot can actually wear the clutch plates out. Rebuild kits are available for 350 bucks and its really not rocket science. You do need some tools and patience. Of course when you are not mechanically minded it will probably not be something for you. Also getting a box checked at a specialist should not cost a fortune, and if it seems to be really stuffed a recon example should average around a grand.
    Cleaning the valve body with brake cleaner and lubricating afterwards with fresh tranny oil (tq95) solves a lot of problems. Otherwise checking the sensor on the side of the tranny would be a good one as it tells the computer what gear it is in, or check the s5 selenoid.
    One thing kim’s right about: the ba and ed boxes are not interchangeable.

  5. Sorry Kim, gotta agree with mark. I have recently fitted a tranny into my ED XR6 which i removed from my old EB.
    Transmission has over 500,000km of torture, towing, burnouts, racing, you name it (was my first car), spent 4 years parked in back yard, and had never been serviced until the swap about 3 months ago, and all I did was change fluid and adjust bands. Still works like new.
    No third/fourth in drive, but 1, 2, and R still work normally would likely indicate C1 clutch failure. That’s what happened to mine.

  6. Matt , theres alot different with the trannys , coolant connectors will be diff as will lots of other parts ie. computer.
    Kim , btr ion ect are now still the same company really with a name change or 3 , now dsi, drivetrain systems international.
    As said the sealed units should be serviced.
    Changing clutch plates should be straight forward . remove convertor take off housing , remove pump then the clutch can come out . from there u only need the new plates and a flat screwdriver to remove the snap rings.

    jay , how did u adjust the bands with a box that old ?

  7. Lots of e-series have dipsticks. Generally located on the driver side front seat! 🙂
    Hahaahahahahaha! Sorry – had to do that. Yes, Jay is right. EA boxes for instance are heaven to work on – external band adjustments, dipsticks, yay!

  8. hi,
    when my ’95 fairlane has been driven for a while on the highway, it thumps into gear severely when driving back through towns at 60 km/h. It revs to approx 3500 in first gear before thumping into 2nd, no matter how easy it is driven. The temp shows “M” on the gauge, and I only changed fluid and filter in the box yesterday. It has been doing it since getting on the road 2 weeks ago.

  9. Hey. I’ve got a 96 EF Futura. Got it as a project. A mech said my tranny fluid’s ‘burnt’ and something bout bands. Can these be replaced n fluid refilled without need for new tranny altogether. Car drove A1 the handful of times I drove it, then just revved out, can’t do over 10kph, when u can do that !!! Went like it from one trip to next n if I am up for new tranny, what ones are compatible. Limited funds so need simplest solution if poss. Cheers guys.

  10. Hello i have a AU III auto i goes like a trooper but has a problem.
    theres the plate that bolts onto the back end of the passenger side behind the cooling pipes,
    in reverse when the gear box warms up it keeps blowin its fluid out of the bottom right hand side (when looking at it)
    (only in reverse doesnt leak at all going forward) now i went through 2 gaskets (standard) and it blow them out in the exact same place so i thought the plate itself was warped abit so ive replaced the plate with one off a non leaking box made up a new gasket with 1mm paper (hoping the added thickness would help) but it only lasted 2 weeks before it started spitting it out in the exact same place does anyone have any ideas?

  11. I have a 2002 A111 with a problem with a transmission. The original Transmission failed and we replaced it with a good second hand one. We have had some problems now as no 2 transmission seems to be acting as the no1 , it won’t change up or down and now we have parked up before more trouble. Could this be a computer recognission falt??? or do I have to look further. I’m stumped! and running short of patience and dollars v value of vehicle. Can some one help. Noel.

  12. Ryan , what do u mean by plate ? is it a star shape with 6 bolts, if so its the rear servo , we now use a metal gasket for these. By adding thickness you may have adjusted the band by the servo pin being moved out . probobly not enough to matter though. is the case dented ?

  13. AU series II 6 cyl utility. Clunked badly from first to second. I dropped the pan, installed a new filter, drained what fluid I could & cleaned the pan. I put it all back together, topped up the fluid until it ran out the filler hole & the clunk went away.

    6 months later, on my honeymoon (June 2011), I hit a roo & wiped out the front end. Insurance fixed that & added a new radiator etc. Ute now has little power, if I put my foot down it seems to want to change up then down & really is all over the place. Worse on hills, can clunk badly at times – worse when decelerating. Take it very easy & it is fine.

    I topped up the transmission fluid (always TQ95) – thinking the radiator replacement may have drained some fluid – & it hasn’t helped. Car feels very gutless, but very smooth if I go easy on it. Only plays up under load. Help! It has done 405,000km (original tranny & had been fine since day one) Help!

  14. yes its the star shaped plate the case isnt dented from what i can see but its a country car and has copped a beating every now and then from rough roads (very front x member dented up) are you talkin like a copper gasket?

  15. Hi, looking forward to an article on how to DIY service my EA Falcon’s autobox. I know a bit, but a thorough how to would be excellent.

    TIA.

  16. Ryan , its not copper its like a grey aluminum metal with a raised rim that compresses down as run in or done up and if we have to remove one whilst building we have to fit a new one as after its been compresses it wont work again. Id say if u have changed the gasket though it must be the case coz a new paper gasket will work fine still.

  17. Well im not sure what u can try other than to try find a metal gasket , tell them to order a rear servo gasket out of a new 4 spd , its the same but much better than paper. If u lock it in 1st manually it should leak too as that servo only works when in reverse or in 1st manual. hopefully u can track down a metal gasket …

  18. Well I think I have found the right people hear to help me please. I have a 2005 BA Ute and the transmission has started to play up and seems to be stuck in one gear (limp home mode), and the display flashes. When I start up it is fine but when I take off it revs out in first with the display not flashing then jumps into a higher gear and the display flashes. I believe that this may have been created from the amount of water on the roads yesterday, as at times I become a little swamped. Also how far and long should you drive in “limp”mode.

  19. january 18, 2012 at 8:00 pm i drive a falcon au iii sr 2002 which the auto repeatedly changes down then releases the faster i drive the harder the thump.wont do it when accelerating, could somebody help

  20. Hi, I have a AU 1999 ute , There is a problem with the trans, It vibrates through 2-3 not under load and now hard to place in reverse. i am going to drop the pan and service the trans, am i on the right track or will the problem be deeper then this?
    Any Ideas anyone?

  21. I have a 1997 NL Fairlane, auto has been serviced every 40k – 50k and has always ran well. In 2010 one day it stayed in third constantly and the auto service diagnosed problem as S4 solonoid which was changed and all was good for a good while. Lately it began to randomly stay in third gear. The auto service guy rechecked it and said all was well, he simply had to cancel the alarm using his plug in tech analysis computer. Also if you stop the engine for 10 seconds and restart the auto will resume normal operation which is smooth and quiet like new. This is what the tech guy said to try – just like rebooting a computer apparently.This behavior is happening once or twice a week and is slightly annoying in traffic when the car “accelerates” so slowly from rest in 3rd gear until it reaches 30 kmh or so. Any one with any ideas or comments.

  22. Hello anyone who is interested. If you read my eaerlier post, you’d know about my tranmission issues. Well, the solution to my problem was the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). I replaced it 2 weeks ago and not only are the transmisison problems gone thank God, but the AUII ute – with 406,000 on the clock – feels like a new car. So much more power. The TPS was $103 from REPCO.

    My dioagnosis:

    1:) Had a friend with the older type of diagnostic reader connect it to my car and he said “The TPS is reading low”.
    2:) Later, I took the car for a test drive with a transmission specialist ion Bayswater, Perth, and he suggested the TPS too.
    3:) Also, I noted that the transmission changed gear quickly, no problems there, but just not when you’d expect it to change
    4:) After all this, I also considered $2500 for a new tranny is a lot for an old car like this, so $103 for a TPS was worth a try

  23. hi i have purchased an au 99 model that had been in storage for a couple of years, ive recently had to reg when the auto began slipping and clunking threw gears 1-2 until it went into limp mode i would turn ignition off and the process would repeat. we replaced the trans and the second is performing exactly the same. can anyone help diagnose whats causing this to happen

  24. Hi,,1996 XH,,over 400,ooo kms and last year had a chngeover tranny fitted; cause apparently crap from collapsed radiator cooler, ok,,now JUST over 12 months and the thing is doing ( sticky downchange and dropping into 2nd at 100kmh cruise) it again. New radiator fitted as well as aux. cooler fitted. Could there be an electrical problem as worse on wet days in “power” on selector switch.

  25. Hi, I’ve a Falcon XT 05.. it got stuck in mud the other night… went from drive to reverse pretty quick with the reves up and now it wont go at all.. do you think the gear box is gone>> or something to do with the transmission? there wasnt a strange smell coming form it or anything and no lights are on the dash

  26. Hi I’ve got a EL wagon 310k up, my auto seems to go briefly into neutral before engaging 1st when I get to a roundabout or give way sign and slow to walking pace, if I’m not carefull with the right foot it bangs into first, some times if I have to stop suddenly it seems to shudder, other that that it changes perfect, any suggestion appreciated

  27. Hi i have a AU111 auto ute 200ks slips on kick down from top gear to lower gear, 4th to 3rd, mainly, once in gear drives perfect.
    Up shift in all gears is perfect, dosent slip in any gear driving normally or under load.
    Any ideas anyone ?

  28. Hi,
    new problem has arisen in my ’95 NF Fairlane. I drove it 10 km with a broken ATF line, as I didn’t realise it had broken, fixed it up, and it seems ok, but occasionally it has a problem where it won’t go into reverse, if I put it in neutral it drives forward. Can anyone shed some light on to what extent I have damaged the box?

  29. MOXFORD, did you top up the fluid with the correct type? I was told the proper way to fill it was to fill until it runs out, then, run the vehicle and get it to operating tempertaure usign all gears and then leave it running in park and top it up again. Hope this helps.

    You can pick up gasket/filter kits pretty cheap from REPCO if you want to drop the fluid and put new fluid in. (Good idea if you haven’t already done so)

  30. Tim in Perth,
    yes, I used TQ95 ATF to top it up. I changed the flushed the box 5 months ago, but will do it again if needed

  31. Moxford, try the inhibitor switch on the side also. It could be stuffed and telling your box it is in a different gear than your stick actually is. These switches go often on these boxes and shouldn’t set you back more than 50 dollars.

    Cheers,

    Mark.

  32. Is your shifter properly adjusted? Hold the button in and run it through the gears making sure the indicator on the console is lined up when you feel the detents in the box.

  33. Hi Moxford and Tim this also concerns you.

    I have an Au falcon ute. Ages ago I towed a car trailer 1000ks with a car on it in drive which gave my transmission a hard time. When I reached my destination I was unable to engage reverse unless I revved the engine really hard. When it cooled down it went into rev no probs. I put up with it and in the end I was having troubles with clutches slipping in fwd and the transmission neutralizing whilst driving with it cold. I bit the bullet and bought a “good second hand one” About 6 months later it began to not want to engage reverse when hot. I had also noticed that the trans always used to smell hot when I arrived home from work and was leaking a bit of oil. I serviced the trans and the problem went away for a few thousand k’s and then started to come back(although still smelt hot) I changed the radiator because it was leaking and low and behold the Hot smell went away. There was a problem with the oil cooler in the radiator and it was not cooling the oil sufficiently. But this did not fix the reverse not working when hot problem. Over the last week I have pulled my gearbox down and rebuilt it. I found the cause of reverse not working. In the middle of the C3 clutch pack are 2 shafts with a bush between the 2 shafts. The bush had spun heating up the outer shaft burning the inner o ring of the c3 clutch apply piston. When cold the oil was thick enough to not bypass the seal too much, when hot the oil was thinner and the seal softer allowing the oil to bypass.
    Most of the friction discs were worn and the front band was worn out too. I put in a banner kit(contains all seals,o rings, gaskets and friction discs), new bushes for the shafts in the center of the c3 clutch, new front band and tail shaft bush.
    You will need to make a special tool to compress the piston return springs in the clutch packs so you can replace the piston seals(yes you need to replace the piston o rings as they do wear)

    Almost done, tested the car tonight and I seem to have missed something as 2nd and 4th wont engage. Something fishy with the front band actuator. Hopefully I don’t have to pull it out and apart again….. Fingers crossed I have left off an o ring from the front band actuator piston….

    Conclusion for AU Falcon won’t engage reverse:
    Check for brass deposits on the oil pan.
    Rebuild box, replace bushes for shafts in the center of C3.
    Check/replace oil cooler.

    I hope this helps someone!

    Cheers Mick

  34. Just an update.
    Found my problem why 2nd and 4th would not engage.
    When I pulled the valve body apart I did not have it upside down so the nylon balls would stay in the top casing so I had to guess where they went. I had one in a spot that looked like it should go there, but there was another place for it to go. Corrected that and all is good, nice smooth shifts and it goes in reverse when hot!!!!! Nice! I’m giving myself 10/10 for the rebuild 😀

    Cheers Mick

  35. Hi There
    I have a 2003 Ford Falcon xr6 2003 Auto. Here is her story:
    about three months ago she begun to play up… I would be driving up hills etc and she would slip out of gear. thought she was low on transmission but she had just been for her service. Anyway bout 3 days later i went to go get lunch and put her in drive and she reversed … put her in park and she drove etc. She went straight to Ford and they said it was the inhibitor switch due to alot of water under the carriage [ had been in car wash about the time this all started and paid for an Extra wash – never again].
    All fixed? NOPE now 3 months later it seems to run fine no more trouble with the transmission EXCEPT when i put it in Park it displays an R on the dash instead of a P ???????????? Anyone know what it is because i really want to sell this car as we no longer need it

    Sincerely – Sick of My BA 03

  36. Hi there Sick of My BA 03
    Sounds like the inhibitor switch isnt adjusted properly it should have slotted holes where it bolts to the gearbox and if its bolted up in the wrong position it will display a different gear to what has been selected.
    If this isnt rectified it will also put fault codes in the transmission ecu.
    kind regards
    Darren

  37. Thanks for replying Darren – will look into that … was worried the transmission might be on its way out. Being a woman
    i hate taking it to the shop as they ether play me or treat me like an idiot HAHA x

  38. Ok a sad update 🙁

    Well I seem to have lost reverse again. Though it might have been the rear band that needed adjusting so got the shims. Upon draining the oil I noticed that it was very metalic in colour. Once the pan was off, it got worse, more metal than I have ever seen in the bottom of my trans, it was just caked in there F#&% Fitted the adjusting shims, new oil, filter but still no good, back to square 1, infact even worse than square 1!!! My advice(yes I am a mechanic) pay someone to fix it, then it is their problem when it turns to crap a few weeks after the job!!!!! Will be getting another tranny, very tempted to go the fully refurbished option this time….

    Not so cheery, Mick

  39. Bugger hey mick , im guessing your pan was full of grey sludge ! Maybe a gear set failure now ?
    Any large chunks of metal?

    Changing an inhibitor switch will be hard without a pin remover too !

  40. I don’t think the gearset has any problems, there was no crunching. The symptom stared showing by first taking a little longer to engage reverse, then reverse bagan to slip, then to the point where reverse was more lile “reverse assist” as I was pushing the car backward!! LOL Yes there was a tone of grey sludge in the pan as well as remenants of the brass bush from the shaft inside C3, so for some reason that has gone again, most likely because I did not change the centre shaft as the land where the bush was running was a bit damaged so I just linished it up and polished it in the lathe. When I fitted the new bush it went in nice and tight and I linished it out until the centre was a good clearence fit, not tight and not what I would consider too loose.
    I suspect that the valve body also had some issues as the change from 1st to second was a bit long so thats just a can of worms in itself! I did check all of the lube ports as well while I was rebuilding. Anyway, that one is now retired! I found a good one on ebay for $220 and it does seem to be quite good(yes I flushed my cooler first!) The bottom of the pan had a little bit of fine grey in there but not much at all. It doesn’t look as though it had ever overheated either(the plastic around the soleniod plugs is not discoloured)

    Also purchased another “spare” box as well from the scrap pile at an auto recycler’s. It was in unknown condition, the oil looked really good and it had also been rebuilt and it had a new torque converter. Upon removing the sump, there was a bit of metal and also some brass bush material, but no where near as bad as my original! It had not been serviced since being rebuilt. I will take it apart for an inspection to see its condition and then keep it for a spare, cause I’m sure I will be doing the box again someday!!!!

    Cheers Mick

  41. Mine is a 2000 AU Forte. I bought it for not very many $$. I did a lot of simple, overdue maintenance and now its pretty reasonable. The auto has a couple of issues. The common 1st – 2nd clunk which can improved by leaving the transmission set to ECO mode. Shifting 2-3 is vague, 3-4 really vague. I must add, the transmission is much better when cold, except for a slight whistle for the first few gear changes. Should I be looking for a replacement… or like many other issues when I bought the car… Is this down to a lack of maintenance???

  42. Mine is a 2000 AU Forte. I bought it for not very many $$. I did a lot of simple, overdue maintenance and now its pretty reasonable. The auto has a couple of issues. The common 1st – 2nd clunk which can improved by leaving the transmission set to ECO mode. Shifting 2-3 is vague, 3-4 really vague. I must add, the transmission is much better when cold, except for a slight whistle for the first few gear changes. Should I be looking for a replacement… or like many other issues when I bought the car… Is this down to a lack of maintenance???

    And…. engaging reverse from N or P takes a little longer than engaging D.

  43. Hello JayPea55, it really does sound like yours has low fluid. So, I would buy a transmission service kit from Ford or REPCO (new filter and gasket) and then drop the pan, clean it up inside and out, put the pan back on then fill it up through the bolt hole on the side (with the bolt removed of course) until the fluid comes out the same hole. Take it for a run until it warms up and use all the gears, bring it home, leave it running in Park and top it up again while running.

    The first to second clunk is a giveaway. Before having TPS issues, my car exhibited the same problems as yours and this fixed it.

  44. Thanks ‘Tim in Perth’…. Removed oil from transmission fluid (recovered about 3+ liters) of brown molasses gunk. Didn’t smell burnt, just looked very old. Probably original. Most car repairer must figure No dipstick, no service required. Anyhow, refilled it with 3.5 L of Castrol TQ 95 and a bottle of Nulon Auto Trans conditioner, and it drives better every day. Thinking I might invest in another 12 L of TQ 95 and flush the whole transmission. Again thanks a bunch.

  45. Hi i have a 97 EL when cold the trans is perfect but when it warms up every now and again it wont change down gears it just vibrates when slowing down so i change it down manually and then its fine..Any ideas..

  46. New Problem ….. Mine is a 2000 AU Forte. As I said in my post from July 19… It keeps working better. A new problem has arrived. When starting in the morning (cold) driving off in D, The transmission is stuck in 1 st gear and the speedo does not work. Driving around in 1st for a few mins the speed springs into life, and the transmission attempts to shift correctly. After about 12 to 15 mins the speedo operates normally as does the transmission.
    I read a bit about a transducer in in the transmission that supplies pulses to the instrument panel, which runs the speedo. This seems plausible… but where does it live. Any ideas.

    JP

  47. JayPee55,
    Check the connection first. Look for an inline connector on a small lead (contains 3 wires) generally hooked to the side of the transmission above the main wiring plug on the left side. The speed sensor is located at the top toward the rear, on the right side of the extension housing. It is simple enough to remove, undo a single bolt and pull it out. When reinstalling, don’t do the bolt up too tight, just nip it up.
    Hope this helps.

    Jay.

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