Welcome to the first instalment of my DIY Tutorials! My aim is to provide practical guides to the DIY mechanic, ranging from the most basic repairs and maintenance up to the more complicated repairs.

I will keep these guides ‘generalised’ in an attempt to cover many makes and models, however if there is something specific you need to know don’t hesitate to leave a comment and I’ll see what I can do. So put on your overalls, dust off the tools and let’s get started!

Parts/Tools Required.

1. The car (sorry I just had to!)
2. Trolley Jack or the cars factory jack
3. Chassis Stands
4. Oil Drain Tray
5. A funnel
6. The correct size spanner and/or socket, extension bar and ratchet
7. Oil Filter removing tool/s
8. Replacement sump plug washer
9. Correct grade and quantity of oil
10. Correct oil filter for your car
11. Some rags to clean up?

Certainly not rocket surgery here (I love that saying!), but none the less a very important part of vehicle maintenance.

Information on the correct grade of oil to be used can be found in your vehicles owners handbook, failing that the guys where you buy your auto parts will have the nescessary information. Ditto for the oil filter and sump plug washer.

1. My opinion is that the oil should be at engine operating temperature before draining it. Although this can cause hassles when removing the sump plug, I will show you a way to avoid getting your hands burnt by hot oil.
2. Raise the vehicle and support with chassis stands. NEVER GET UNDER A CAR SUPPORTED BY THE JACK ALONE. It is possible with some vehicles to change the oil and filter without lifting the car, even if you use the factory jack to lift one side of the car it will make your life easier.
3. Using the ring end of the spanner or socket and ratchet, loosen the sump plug. If you have warmed the engine up, don’t remove the sump plug just yet. Take your socket and join it to your extension bar and use this to remove the plug completely and keep your hands out of harms way! Don’t worry if the plug drops into the waste oil, we can retrieve it later.
4. Take your Oil Filter removal tool and turn the filter anti-clockwise to loosen it. Oil may run out of it at this stage so be prepared with some rags. Over-size multi-grip pliers are great at removing stubborn filters.
5. Once the sump plug and filter are removed go and make a coffee or harass the dog for twenty minutes or so while it drains.
6. Once the oil flow is down to a very slow drip, replace the sump plug washer with the one you bought and refit the sump plug. Be careful not to over-tighten the sump plug. With a new washer fitted it won’t leak as long as it is tightened firmly but not over-tightened.
7. Wipe down the area where the oil filter seal contacts the engine block. Dip your finger in the new oil and put a film of oil on the new filter’s seal. Install the new filter and once again do not over-tighten. Hand tight is fine.
8. Refill the engine using the funnel and hold the oil container on its side to prevent it from ‘gulping’ out. As a general rule of thumb, I initially put 3.5 litres of oil in a four cylinder and 4 litres in a 6 or 8 cylinder. Once you have put the initial amount in let the oil drain down for a couple of minutes and check that you have oil over the minimum mark on your dipstick.
9. Let the car down off the jack and chassis stands.
10. Start the car and keep a close eye on the oil pressure light or gauge. The light should go out or the gauge should move after about thirty seconds of running.
11. Once again go harass the dog for five minutes and come back and check the level. If you find it low use amounts of 250ml and let it drain down until the level is correct.
12. Check for leaks!! You don’t want to find out the hard way that you have a leak!
13. Take the waste oil to a recycling centre or your neighbours yard! NO, no don’t do that, waste oil must be disposed of correctly, think of all the fish it harms if you put it down the water drain.
14. The last thing to do is document the date and mileage of your oil change. Sometimes the oil container will have a sticker you can peel off and put on your windscreen, if not note it down and put it in a safe place so you’ll know when it’s due again.

Next week we will take a look at what is involved in a basic tune-up for a electronically fuel injected car. Until then take care and be safe on the roads.