29th August 2007

How to check for a blown fuse

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 There are two different methods for checking for blown fuses. The first one is simply to find the right fuse for the circuit or component in question and remove the fuse and check it visually.( There is usually a diagram on the inside of the fuse panel cover that explains which fuse is for which circuit/component.)

 The seconback-to-basics-014.jpgd method, which I prefer, is to use a test light and run through all the fuses one at a time. This way if there is any other blown fuses that you weren’t aware of you can find and replace them. If you don’t have a test light you can rig a simple one up with an automotive bulb and holder and some short lengths of wire (see picture). A test light at a Auto Parts store can cost as little as five dollars though and are a handy tool to have.

 So where are the fuses located? There are two blocks of fuses in most cars, one located in the engine bay (which usually contains relay’s as well) and one inside the car, either behind a pull-out panel in the dash or under the dash around the foot-well area. Your owners manual will have a diagram or explanation of the exact location. Often there will be a ‘fuse puller’ in the fuse box for removing and fitting fuses.(arrow in picture)back-to-basics-008.jpgback-to-basics-009.jpg

 

 

 

 I am using a vehicle with blade type fuses for this example however the test procedure is the same for the majority of fuse types found in modern motor cars.

 The first step is to turn the ignition to the ‘on’ position. Next, find a good earth point for the aligator clip on the test light. In the picture I am using the negative terminal of the battery and any un-painted metal part in the engine bay will do. When checking the interior fuses, the head of a bolt will do as long as it screws into the vehicle frame or the door striker if the lead of the test light is long enough.

 What we need to do is check both sides of the fuse where the metal protrudes slightly from the plastic casing. (see picture) If the test light lights up on both sides that fuse is ok. If the test light lights up on one side but not the other, that fuse is blown and needs replacing. While your are at it a check of all the other fuses is recommended.back-to-basics-010.jpgback-to-basics-012.jpg

 

 

 

A couple of things to consider when doing a fuse check. Any lighting circuits will not show any power unless the lights are switched on. So if you have a lighting problem switch the lights on first before checking for a blown fuse.

 Fuses are there to protect electrical circuits and if the new fuse you put in blows there is a problem that needs to be seen to by an Auto Electrician.

 Always replace a fuse with the same amperage rating as the one that came out. Blade fuses are colour coded as to their amp rating and glass type fuses have the amp rating stamped on one end, although a bit hard to read sometimes. Don’t substitute a different amp rating fuse for another, serious damage can be done or worse it may cause the wiring to melt and it may catch fire. Ouch!

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Take care and be safe on the roads. 

Craig 

posted in Back to Basics, DIY Tutorials | 0 Comments

29th August 2007

How to change a flat tyre

 To try and create some sort of structure around here I have decided to start a category called ‘Back to Basics’ which will contain tutorials on changing tyres, replacing bulbs and fuses, basic tune-up info, that sort of thing and slowly work up into the more complex stuff. The old tutorials are still here and won’t be getting replaced, just added to. So here we go with the first installment, I hope you find them useful.

How to change a flat tyre.

(and yes, I know the tyre in the picture isn’t flat, just work with me on this one okay!)

 First and foremost, NEVER EVER get under a car that is supported by the jack alone. If something goes wrong you’re a gonner.

 Okay now that is out of the way, make sure that the car is on firm, flat ground, and ensure that the handbrake is firmly applied and the car is in Park(Auto) or First or Reverse gear(Manual).

 Remove the jack and spare wheel from the car. This is where you usually find out why checking the pressure in your spare is so important! If you car has hubcaps, remove the hubcap using the end of the wheel brace. Place the jack underneath the vehicles sill panel(see picture). There will be cut-out’s or marks in the panel(arrows in the picture) where it is it’s strongest and that is where we want the head of the jack to go.back-to-basics-001.jpgback-to-basics-003.jpg

 

 

 

  Before we start to lift the car we need to loosen the wheel nuts, half to one turn is all that is needed. The majority of vehicles have right hand thread wheel nuts which means the nut has to go in a anti-clockwise direction to loosen. Some Mazda and Ford vans had left hand thread wheel nuts only on the left hand side of the vehicle, but other than them I can’t think of any other’s with left hand thread.back-to-basics-002.jpgback-to-basics-004.jpg

 

 

 

 Once the wheel nuts are loose we can begin winding the jack and lifting the car. Watch what is happening as you are lifting the car and if the jack is slewing sideways or anything like that stop and wind down the jack and reposition it so it lifts straight up and down.back-to-basics-005.jpg

 

 

 

Okay, when the wheel is off the ground remove the wheel nuts, lift off the wheel and place it underneath the car near as possible to the jack. Doing this reduces the risk of a major drama if the jack fails.

 Fit the spare tyre to the wheel studs, with some wheels this can be an art in itself but keep trying and you will succeed. Wind the wheel nuts on in a clockwise direction and nip them up with the wheel brace. No need to get them tight as we will do this when the car is on the ground.

 Wind the jack down and before you do anything else, tighten the wheel nuts with the wheel brace. There is no need to put all your energy reserves into tightening the wheel nuts and risk bursting something, they only need to be tight, not over-tightened.

 Put the flat tyre, jack and wheel brace back into the car, fit the hubcap and you’re done. A note on fitting hubcaps - there is often a cut-out in the hubcap which has to line up with valve stem for the hubcap to go on properly.(see pictures below)

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Take care and be safe on the roads.

Craig

posted in Back to Basics, DIY Tutorials | 0 Comments

28th August 2007

Escape from the Rat Race

 Getting way off track yet again, I want to share with you another one of my ‘projects’. It is a blog called ‘Escape from the Rat Race’ and covers all sorts of things relating to freeing yourself from the 9 to 5 life that everybody loves so much!

 I want to raise the question of ‘what if you could break away from the rat race’ and start living the life that you deserve and I aim to explore every opportunity available to make this dream a reality not only for myself but for my readers as well. Exciting times!!

 Please take the time to check it out and if you feel you have something to add, comments are more than welcome.

 Click on this link to see what it’s all about.

Take care

Craig

 

posted in Automotive News and Views | 0 Comments


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