Comments on: Timing Belt Replacement - Mitsubishi 3.0 V6

By: craig

craig — Tue, 09 Dec 2008 02:49:53 +0000

Hi Randy,
It is possible for the valves to come in contact with the tops of the pistons if the camshaft timing has been altered by a substantial amount when the waterpump froze. This does not always happen though, a number of factors come in to play such as engine rpm at the time of the belt slipping, the amount of clearance between the valves and pistons etc etc.
The only sure-fire way of knowing if any damage has been done is to fit a new waterpump and timing belt and do a compression test of each cylinder.

By: randy

randy — Mon, 08 Dec 2008 19:47:58 +0000

my waterpump froze and my belt skipped time is it possiable the engine now has more damage from this?

By: craig

craig — Tue, 02 Dec 2008 09:24:28 +0000

Hi Dave,
I’ve done a plenty of Magnas, Veradas and Pajeros over the years but I can’t say I’ve done a single V6 Galant timing belt! From the info I have here the model of Galant that has the V6 is from 1993 to 1996 and the engine has a capacity of 2.0 litres. Does this sound right for your vehicle?
If this is right I will look into a bit further and see if I can get the correct procedure for your engine as I am not sure if the setup is the same as the 6G72 3.0 V6.

By: David

David — Tue, 02 Dec 2008 08:27:12 +0000

Hi I notice you named a hand full of mitsubishi makes and models except the mitsubishi Galant..im assuming that this 3.0L V6 your wrenching is the same family V6?..I have not replaced a timing belt before..but with the info you have provided i fell a little bit more confident..Also I notice that you really didnt mention about any specilty tools? Do you think I need any do to the fact that this is a front wheel drive? if so which 1 do i need.if every thing gos right this job should only take maybe 2 to 4 hours?..ok thank you

By: John

John — Thu, 16 Oct 2008 02:22:11 +0000

Hi there, thanks for information on replacing the timing belt. I have a 1999 3.5 litre Pajero. I was wondering if there were any major differences to the 3 litre engine, when it comes to changing the timing belt/water pump etc. Mine is just about due!!!

By: craig

craig — Thu, 02 Oct 2008 14:32:30 +0000

Hi Chris,
There is a likely hood that the tops of the pistons have come into contact with the valves and bent the valve stems causing them to either remain open or not seal against their seat.
Unfortunately the only way to diagnose this is to fit another timing belt (with all the usual timing marks correctly aligned) and attempt to start the engine or carry out a compression test.
Although this will more than likely cost a few hours in labour and the price of a new timing belt I personally would recommend you have this done before condeming the engine to the scrap heap.
I have come across the odd occasion where this has happened and for whatever reason the valves have been untouched although this is very rare.
Also if the valves have been bent and are not too severely damaged, which you won’t really know until the cylinder heads are removed from the engine, it may be possible to overhaul both cylinder heads and leave the bottom end alone. Unfortunately either scenario is not going to be cheap but if you can get away with reconditioning the cylinder heads instead of a full engine exchange the bill should be slightly less.
I hope this has shed some light on it for you and if there is anything else I can help with please don’t hesitate to shoot us an email.

By: Chris

Chris — Thu, 02 Oct 2008 13:47:20 +0000

‘Hey Craig, I have similar problems, my timing belt went due to the tensioner not being replaced in my TF 1997 Magna. We are currently under the impression that we will need a recon engine because of pistons or something (obviously i’m not a mechanic!) however I have stumbled accross this forum and thought I would ask exactly how we will know if the engine is cactus?
Many thanks

By: craig

craig — Tue, 15 Apr 2008 10:53:26 +0000

Hi Brant,
The symptoms you describe point towards either a thermostat not opening or more likely a blocked or at least partially blocked radiator.
Have you had the radiator professionally cleaned at any stage? If some of the cooling tubes are blocked up with crap the radiator can loose it’s ability to dissipate enough heat particularly when the engine is loaded up.
A simple way to test the thermostat is to take it out and place it in a pot of boiling water and see if it opens or not.
I am assuming that this problem was evident before you replaced the waterpump, timing belt and thermostat, is that correct?

By: brant

brant — Tue, 15 Apr 2008 10:18:18 +0000

hey craig ive just put a new water pump in and new timing belt it might be out by 1 tooth and ive put a new thormo stat in and the hoses r good and theres no blockige in the radator it over heats wen i rev out or going a fast speed and it cools down wen i put it in lower gears or nutral its just got me fucked 4 2 months now i dont no whats going on any thoughts?

By: Kevin

Kevin — Wed, 12 Mar 2008 00:22:19 +0000

Hi
This is just the info I have been looking for. Will put it into practice shortly

Thanks.