Comments on: Auto Repair Advice Forum Launched!

By: craig

craig — Sat, 20 Feb 2010 03:05:28 +0000

Hi Ed,
Interesting problem you have there. The first thing that came to mind was crankshaft/camshaft timing i.e. a piston connecting with a valve. Do you know if the timing covers have been off previously or have you checked to see if the crank and cam timing marks are lined up correctly?

Regards,
Craig

By: ed

ed — Fri, 19 Feb 2010 09:54:35 +0000

I bought my wife a 2008 toyota hilux with a 4 litre v6 engine (4 speed auto). It had minor front end damage from an accident.

I have removed the cam covers and the sump. I move the crankshaft by 90 degrees one way and 90 degrees the other way and the shaft stops. I have checked the front timing chains top and bottom but it appears there is no object caught up in there.

It appears that the source of the stoppage appears to be at the back of the motor. I don’t want to remove the engine yet. Any ideas? Thanks.

By: michael

michael — Sun, 19 Jul 2009 05:36:00 +0000

hi i have a manual 91 Mazda 121 bubble and i was wondering how to remove the trans-axle shafts couplers?

By: Neisha

Neisha — Tue, 07 Apr 2009 01:49:45 +0000

I have a carburetor Suzuki Esteem. The power steering pump has a single black wire connected to it from the wiring harness.
There is NO motor in the power steering pump which is oil pump and is driven by the engine.
There is NO ECM in carburetor model.
why is this wire provided?
Is this a negative wire just earthed or is this connected to take some feed. In this case is it a positive wire?
What will happen if this wire is NOT connected?
What is its role anyway?
Please do reply
Neisha

By: jon

jon — Mon, 16 Mar 2009 04:32:52 +0000

hi
i have a 1987 bmw 320i that is making a loud noise in what sounds like the driveline, it gets louder as i go faster and stops at around 3 ks. any ideas? i think its either transmission or rear axle but just want to get some opinions

By: craig

craig — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 11:31:28 +0000

Hi Jeff,
This is not a vehicle that we see here in Oz so unfortunately I can’t answer your question. I suggest that you try one of the Acura/Honda forums such as http://www.acuraforum.net/ for the correct information.

By: jeff la point

jeff la point — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 20:27:42 +0000

i have a acura integra 2000 i need to replace yhe right front head light unit do i need to take off the bumber to fix it

By: craig

craig — Wed, 26 Nov 2008 07:18:25 +0000

Hi Bob,
From the symptoms you are describing I believe the anti-lock braking system is being ‘triggered’ for some reason at these low speeds. A pulsating or vibrating pedal combined with a humming type brake noise is exactly what you would experience when the anti-lock system is triggered during an emergency stop.
Although I am not familiar with the Chevy Tahoe (I’m an Aussie) I believe that all anti-lock braking systems work on the same principle which is motion sensors attached to each wheel hub and when the vehicle is in motion and one wheel ‘locks up’ the control unit picks up that there is no signal from the stationary(brakes locked) wheel and responds by momentarily reducing the brake fluid pressure to that wheel, which gives you the pulsating brake pedal.
This leads me to think that there is a couple of possible scenario’s with your vehicle. Either one of the motion detector ‘rings’ on one of the hubs has come loose and is not turning at low speed, giving the control unit a false reading, one of the sensors that detect wheel movement may have been damaged at some stage as is not functioning correctly or there is a fault with the control unit itself.(Although usually in this case the warning light on the dash would illuminate)
As far as diagnosing the exact cause is concerned, the first thing I would be doing is removing each wheel and thoroughly checking the condition of the anti-lock ‘ring’ and sensor. You could also trace the wire from each sensor back to the control unit and check for any breaks or damage. Other than that there is not a lot you can do without the right equipment I’m sorry.
If you want to remove the wheels and inspect the sensor units yourself and have a digital camera I would be more than happy to take a look and see if we can spot anything amiss.
Sorry I can’t offer you more help than this.

By: bob

bob — Wed, 26 Nov 2008 02:15:32 +0000

I have 1998 chevy tahoe ,I recently started to have a problem with my anti lock brakes. At any giving moment when im slowing down to a stop (less than 3 miles an hr) or changing from drive to reverse or vice versa I experience my brake pedal pulsating , vibrating and or making a humming noise . I took the car to my mechanic and he told me that my brakes needed to be changed front and back and that i had a stuck calliper pin that just needed some lube to free it up but neither worked . The antilock braking system light is not on and I changed my rotors about 8 months ago .I need your advice cause i dont have the money to keep pumping into this vehicle on misdiagnosed fixes.